Horchata, or Not?
- Darcie Khanukayev
- Mar 26
- 2 min read
“I don’t like the horchata in Spain as much as the horchata in
Mexico,” stated John, a Mexican American from Arizona.
“That’s because it’s not horchata in Mexico, it’s not made of
chufa,” I replied with a tone of authority.

I had recently discovered the beautiful chufa fields, stretching
out bright green against the deep blue Mediterranean sky. I thought
they were rice fields and when I mentioned it; I was quickly corrected. Thus, I learned about chufa and my first encounter with horchata.

At the time, I didn’t realize it was a first encounter. I recognised
the name of the drink and, of course, I thought it would be the same
as in California or Mexico. But this horchata was oddly different. I
had never tasted that flavour before, anywhere. I began to
investigate.
Chufa doesn’t grow in Mexico. So, what was that drink that
they called horchata? It was sweet, whitish and milky, icy cold and
delicious, but milder. I turned to Google to find the truth: “Some
people in the United States may be familiar with horchata as a Mexican drink, as was I, but the Spanish version is extremely different from the Mexican version. Mexican horchata is rice-based
rather than chufa-based.” Stated Keith Howerton in an article he had
written for the Herb Society of America Blog.
I now considered myself somewhat of an authority on the
subject, and therefore defended the homely little chufa tuber against
the American misconception.
“Even though it’s not made of chufa, it’s still Horchata!” John
shot back at me, defending himself from my newly found authority.
“If it’s not chufa, it’s not horchata,” I pressed my point. “It’s like
making a pie out of pears and calling it an apple pie because it looks
the same!”
He reminded me he was a Mexican American and retorted:
“It’s my cult, I should know”.
“Right, of course…” I said supportively as I saw he felt his
culture was being questioned.
I looked down humbly to avoid any further offence as I
muttered to myself, “if it isn’t chufa, it isn’t horchata!”
Fortunately, he didn’t hear me, and the conflict passed. Later that evening, I had another thought; maybe John did have a point. Like the article said, the Mexicans have a unique version of horchata, but perhaps it could all be horchata? What do you think?
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